Icer.One's SC10 4x4 Build

thanks guys for the kind comments but i dont think any rc is set up right out of the box and this one is close but still needs some work. the only thing i can really say about the build is read the manual dont just look at it and with the front tunbuckles do opposite of what the manual says and the camber and toe will be alot closer to being right also once the servo is adjusted make sure all bolt are tight before final install. here are some tips i found after i built mine hope this helps

Build Tips
1. Make sure to use Factory Team thread lock, #1596, on your servo horn screw.
2. If using an XP Digital servo, use the servo horn labeled (F).
3. Make sure to apply a small amount of black grease, #6588, on the servo saver halves, page #7, before building the servo saver.
4. Use a bit of Green Slime, #1105, on the 91005 paper diff seal to help prevent fluid leakage from the differentials.
5. Be sure to add 1 ball stud washer, #9630, on each of the M3x26 and M3x24 transmission case screw, page #13.
6. The screws for the rear transmission case, #89226 (M3x26) and #89225 (M3x24), do not have to be completely tightened down. They just have to be snug enough to hold the motor plate. Over tightening can cause drag in the drive train. Be sure to use Factory Team thread lock #1596 before installing the screws as well!
7. When assembling the clicker assembly page #11, apply a drop of Factory Team Tire glue, #1597, to the nylon on the adjustment nut this will help to prevent the nut from backing off. Also use a small amount of black grease #6588 on the clicker teeth to keep it quiet.
8. Use a very small dab of Factory Team Tire glue, #1597, to hold the threaded ball stud inserts, #91021, into the shock towers.
9. Be extra careful to use the correct screws to hold on the front hinge pin brace! Double check that they are 10mm long ones, #25620 Page 18, and not 12mm in the rest of that part of the build. Using too long of screws can cause the front transmission to bind.
10. Make sure to apply some Factory Team thread lock #1596 on the inner ball studs pages 14 & 15. This will help prevent them from loosening up while running.
11. Use a very-very small drop of Factory Team tire glue #1597 on the wheel hex pins #91027 shown on page 16 & 20. This helps keep the pins in the axles when you remove the wheels or remove the hexes.
12. Make sure to apply some Factory Team thread lock #1596, to the shock piston screw. Doing so will help prevent the piston from falling off.

Race Tips
1. Remove the upper X-Ring, #91055, this will free up the shocks and takes a lot of the stiction away and the shocks will feel much smoother. Don’t forget that the shock cartridge seal tube is directional!
2. Use our high-torque slipper pad, #91170, on the outer slipper hub only; refer to page 28, when using 550 motors.
3. If you are running without shock boots, #91070, on the shocks, you must add up travel limiters to avoid damaging the bladder.
4. When running bladders, you can remove the bleeder screw to reduce the air-spring effect caused by the air being trapped above the bladder.
5. Adding thread lock, #1596, will help the wheels nuts from backing off during operation.
__________________
Chris Jarosz
Team Associated Customer Support

Man that's a lot of good info. Thanks for putting that up bobby

no problem just trying to help out i wish i would have read this before i built mine it would have been a big help

Here's the sc10 4x4 with my old sc10 body perfect fit

Jorge's durango and the sc10 4x4

So i've been working on my truck for a couple of days now and I finally finished my sway bars I made them out of 2mm piano wire and a slash 4x4 swaybar kit had to modify the you know what out of them but got them to work. Thanks to Jeff that hooked me up with the jammin sway bar mounts and the mounts are almost a perfect fit.




THANKS AGAIN JEFF

Very nice brother! Jeff truly is God sent

+1 on that, if there was a rapture today Jeff would be gone for sure

ok so today i took the SC10 4x4 out to Bobby's and raced it (got there late sorry guys) the mods i did helped alot the sway bars were awesome no traction roll all night and the track was good with traction. i played with diff fluid and that seemed to help alot also i think i will go up in diff fluid in the rear a lil bit and leave the front alone. jumping the truck was a dream it flies level and easy to make corrections in the air except over the double on the back straight i keep hitting that devit and it sends the truck butt over heels and there is nothing i could do to straighten that up but hit the jump on either side and stay away from the middle where that blasted devit is (Andrew can you fix that?)
overall i am very pleased with the truck just need to tinker a lil more and i think its gonna be a good truck.

thanks for looking

Well took the truck out to Bobby's again and ran 3 heats and the main after each heat the motor runs about 140* and the esc is about 103* not bad at all. After the 10 min main motor is at 150* and esc is at 113* still not bad. My gearing is at 12/62 so I could bump up a tooth but I think I might just leave it. Handling was good track was a lil loose not like last week I ran calibers in the heats and megagrids in the main and I liked both tires so I'm kinda torn as to which tire is best but might have to run another tire if the track turns sweet. I wish associated would come out with a spring kit for the truck I'd like to firm up the front some rear seems ok for now. Sway bars still working good but I did traction roll in the main I was surprised but every roll I have done with this truck is in the same place, at the end of the straight by the over under. Might look at my shock placement in the rear may move them to give the shocks more angle to help in the corners just a thought.


Sorry I know I ramble off a bit, I use this thread to document and track my progress of this truck.
Thanks for reading

Man that's not to bad on the temp. Considering how hard you ran I really had to fight to get my lap back. I used to roll in the some place every time as well. I went wide and the shock placement and haven't had that problem. Unless I get off the gas and pitch it on purpose just for fun to see how man times i can roll the truck at the finish Seriously though there is a small rut at the end of the strait where all the 2wds brake. I try to stay on the gas around the turn.

Nice truck Icer! Can't wait to see how fantastic it is on the track!

Thanks Jason but its just a stock truck that i put sway bars on and try to race once in a while (like every weekend) nothing has came out for this truck yet as its a new truck so just got to tinker with set up to make it fast. right now its ok i know it could be better hell i wish i could drive better but thats another story. eventually this truck will be a great one but for now its pretty good

Just got done with adjusting my camber links in front I re-positioned the ball stud and changed the camber to -2* on front and back adjusted ride high to 23mm and moved the shocks out a bit to try and get rid of that blasted traction roll on the sweeper. Also adjusted my belt it is now broke in so had to tighten it just a hair. Well I have to wait to see if these adjustments helped any I think they should see you Sunday