what kind of motor to use and tires

hay guys im going to be getting a rc8.2e very soon and just wanted to know what kv motor i should be looking at for speed world's track? i know im going to be looking at a rx8 and a t8 motor but no idea what kv rateing. for batteries im looking at the turnigy nano tech 5000mah. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__11957__Turnigy_nano_tech_5000mah_4S_45_90C_Lipo_Pack.html

also what kind of tires are great on the track. i only shop jconcepts tho. its been a few years since i have even raced so not to sure on tires. thanks guys

SW would probably be good on a 1700. We have 1900's which do good at hals.

Nmdesertracer is right. Speed World is definitely a track for a 1700KV motor. If I was in your shoes I would choose a 1900KV. This is the all around best motor for the 8th scale buggies. Since you're going to be using the RX8; you will be able to limit the motor voltage via the ESC. By limitin the voltage to the 1900KV motor you'd think you were driving a 1700KV motor. Then when you're ready you can turn it back up. This way you'll have the option of running other tracks. Although the 1700KV is no slouch if you decided on it. I ran the non-sensored Excelorin 1700KV for almost two years and faired pretty well on a good sized track, so it's u;ltimately up to you. You can't go wrong with the 1900KV though, and the 1700KV could be slightly underpowered at a bigger track. Just keep these things in mind when you purchase.

Ok what about the 2000 or 2050 or even the 2250? Would those batteries be able to work with those?

The 1900 is probably the best choice the 2050 is a different wind D where the 1900 is a Y wind. You want your motor to max out around 3/4 the way down the front stretch. if you went to high a kv you would be racing only 1/2 throttle the hole track. That would make your esc and motor temps higher. Brushless motors run more efficient wide open then down low in the rpm's.

Tekin buggy motors:

T8 (buggy) motors
TT2350 4030 2650kv
TT2351 4030 2050kv
TT2352 4030 1900kv
TT2353 4030 1700kv
TT2354 4030 1400kv

Tekin truggy motors:

T8 (truggy) motors
TT2360 4038 2250kv
TT2361 4038 2000kv
TT2362 4038 1700kv
TT2363 4038 1550kv
TT2364 4038 135

Stay away from the nano's get a gens ace hardpack. We run Reedy 65C hardpacks.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-40c-5000-4s1p-hardcase-direct.html

nmdesertracer wrote:

Stay away from the nano's get a gens ace hardpack. We run Reedy 65C hardpacks.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-40c-5000-4s1p-hardcase-direct.html

whats bad about the nano techs?

A Cheap battery pack can give you a host of problems...

When I made the choice to pick up this hobby again many things had changed. There are Lipo batteries - LIFE Batteries,etc, and ESC's that could do stuff I never imagined. Motors were now rated in KV's, and no longer rated by turns. Initially I wasn't sure what the differences were between a $37.00 5000MaH 25C battery from Hobby King and a higher priced MaxAmps or Thunder Power battery.

Here are some of the things I've learned after starting with lower end batteries and now racing with a higher end battery. (I will also add that I've raced everything from Turnigy - Gens Ace - Venom - Venom Race - Racers Edge Race Packs - Pro Tek and Max Amps.)

I had a few Turnigy wrapped packs that were 4s 5000MaH rated at 25C constant with a 65C burst. This battery cost somewhere in the $50 range, which is cheap for a 4S (4 Cell) battery. I was running in in my Losi 8Ight 2.0 with Losi Electronics and a 1700KV unsensored motor. After about two weekends of racing (Outside weather temp at 80-100 Degrees) the pack started to swell; a lot! IT blew up freakishly big and would barely strap in the battery tray. Eventually one of the lead wires would come disconnected deep within the pack and I trashed that pack in under one month.

Here was my problem - If you read the ratings on the motors and speed controls that you're planning on adding to your set up, you'll find that ESC's usually have a MINIMUM Voltage and C rating that they need in order for the speed control to work properly. Most ESC's work best with Batteries rated closer to 40C constant. By running a Lipo lower than 40C with my combination I was over working the ESC and the motor was actually running warm. My temps were nearing the 180-190 degrees with very little change in temps even though I changed pinions. This baffled me! I've actually had this problem when running my 4x4 Losi with Novak Havok ESC and Novak Ballistic 4.5 motor. The Ballistic was rated at 5000KV - it's a monster and these batteries have trouble keeping up with the demands of motors and ESC's like Novak, Tekin, LRP, Castle, etc.

Here's a second problem. Many battery manufacturers will rate their batteries at super high bursts. BUT HOW LONG WILL THESE BURSTS LAST AND AT WHAT AMPERAGE??? Lets take that Turnigy Lipo at a 5000Mah 25C 65C burst. Please don't quote me on exact numbers here, as I do not remember the true numbers; this is for example only and I will exaggerate these to make my point. Take the given Turigy Lipo mentioned above. It claims a 25C constant with a 65C burst at 500Amps. Not too shabby, but if you read the label very close it cannot produce that 65C burst for over 2 seconds. AFTER the 2-3 seconds have expired under extreme acceleration; the 65C 500Amps now drops by half 65C at 250A, and if you continue to beat up on the battery each lap - well now you see the problem. As the battery charge drops the Lipo must work harder and harder as its reservoir of energy is depleted. Now add in ambient air temps, vehicle weight - uh oh - I think we're we're seeing the problems now. As soon as I rid myself of the cheaper batteries I started seeing results - Cooler temps, better run times, less battery swell (none actually).

This is why batteries like MaxAmps, Thunder Power, Reedy, Orion, Racers Edge, and others are sooo good. They are tried and true, and produce insane amounts of energy and are usually hard race packs to boot! Yes they can be expensive ESPECIALLY the MaxAmps Race Editions and the Thunder Power Race Packs. You just have to decide what's best for you. If you're a basher most of this may not matter, but if you're a racer these things will matter.

Now that we understand a little more about Lipos and their ratings, I would like to make a suggestion. I have found that Max Amps and Thunder Power are WAYYY too expensive for my tastes, so I've done my homework and have found that the brand I like most is Racers-Edge. Racers Edge batteries fall right in the middle on pricing and on the high end on performance. I am talking mostly of their race edition packs. I have NEVER had one issue with a Racers-Edge pack - EVER! No swelling, no sputtering, and always deliver great performance. The packs I have have constant C ratings in the 60-65C and a burst of close to 100C at high amps. I have run Racers Edge for three years now and STILL have these batteries. I now have a total of 10 Racers Edge batteries ranging from 2S-4S. I am currently selling my 3S at Valadez becuase I have no use for it. I hope this helps you out. I thoroughly enjoy helping people - it's kind of a passion of mine.

Thanks for all the info guys now I just need to find some tires to run.

A tire with a small pin in a soft or clay compound is perfect. AKA has a great selection of these types of tires. JConcepts Subcultures work very well as well. Proline has an insane line-up of tires. For Speed World choose something with a short nub.

the problem with the 2050 and the 2250 is run time. Same thing with the 4 pole 4000kv vs the 4600kv. Lot of guys had to go to 5500+Mah batteries because they couldn't make the mains with the 4600. I think you'll find the same with the 2050 or the 2250. 1900 is a LOT of motor in a buggy. Its predominantely the motor of choice here and would be flexible at all the area tracks and still be able to use a 5000mah battery to make the mains. I have a 6500(only because it came with the buggy) and it can go 18 minutes on a 1900.

i like the losi BK's on my 4wd 1/10th scale buggy. Proline Suburbs would be great for SW on the SC trucks. Calibers work ok but sometimes have to much side grip which make you traction roll.